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It’s a small but welcome win for the Mill Hill high street that the former desserterie Bugsy’s has extended its menu to offer the full range of foodie treats from starters all the way to desserts. I heard on the grapevine that this funky, American inspired dessert speciality outfit was “going end-to-end” so had to pop in to visit. And I was very pleased that I did. A new head chef with all the credentials and a sharp eye for detail and bright lively new staff should ensure it is a success. Closure over Christmas has given the former niche player time to develop the kitchen and test the new menu (apparently four different types of beef were experimented to produce a burger benchmarked against London’s finest) and we January diners appreciated the generous portions and reasonable prices.Bugsy’s smoked salmon salad was the choice for my partner who claimed to be dieting, although the large portion meant she wasn’t reaching for the fridge at home a few hours later. The avocado was green, plump and partnered with fresh, crisp tomato, cucumber (good enough to use on your face if that’s your thing), bold lettuce mixed slavishly with assorted peppers and was polished off with zeal.My son had been well behaved so he had filet steak which was juicy, tender and delightfully marbled. I am a real carnivore so I took particular note of the richness, depth and a pronounced degree of aging, an unmistakable nutty taste that accentuated and stretched out the beef’s flavour. Yes, I took some of his food. Vegetarians are also particularly well catered for here, and my daughter’s egg salad looked like it had been lavished with no less time and attention than its smoked salmon salad counterpart. Oh, and incidentally I couldn’t resist the burger, mine was medium, juicy, not overly seasoned and cooked to just the right pinkness. It was described on the menu as a halfpounder and it was absolutely huge. I’ll have to return for a more detailed study…As befitting its origins, the desserts were expertly prepared and delivered, our waitress was chatty but not overfriendly and seemed genuinely concerned that we were enjoying the food. There’s not a hint of a sneer when I turn down her recommendation. At the end of the room is a bar styled as I imagine a modern day American designer would fashion when recreating the look of a 1950s diner; it is casual and retro down to the soda fountain but with lots of shiny modern gadgets sourced from Italy. Bugsy's apparently has a full licence which gives the place predominantly a restaurant/bar feel in the evenings.Overall, I felt that the revamp since December has greatly improved the whole place and this has now become a welcome offering from an independent owner flying in the face of what is becoming an increasingly sterile and homogenous high street in danger of being overrun by the big restaurant chains.Take a range of people from your pre-teen kids to your kindly aunt, although your grandmother might find the vibe too trendy.Meal for 2 plus 2 kids £48 including service